French Lick emerges as one of those captivating towns, a mix of eccentricity and charm that’s unveiled as you delve into its layers. Unveil its wonders by immersing yourself in the array of incredible experiences French Lick, Indiana, offers. Step into the bygone era as you explore historic resorts dating back to the early 1900s. Wander through the grounds that once housed sulfurous mineral springs believed to hold health benefits. And yes, prepare to encounter the image of a horned red figure that seems oddly ubiquitous – and no, this isn’t a fabrication.
In merely 48 hours, this luxurious, historical, and quirky destination has the power to captivate your heart. It leaves an indelible mark, igniting a curiosity about the origins and reasons behind such an enchanting place. So, let’s delve into its riveting history and embark on a journey to discover the very best things to do in French Lick, Indiana.
French Lick, Indiana: Your Guide to Activities
As you roll into the charming town of French Lick, the sensation of journeying through history envelops you. Here, the captivating past seamlessly intertwines with the very essence of the place, creating an ambiance akin to a forgotten reverie.
The modern world gradually recedes as highways and gas stations give way to a pair of grand historic hotels. Their pale yellow facades stand in contrast to the azure sky, adorned with verandas, rocking chairs, and elegant columned structures set within formal gardens. These two remarkable hotels, separated by a mere mile and still under the ownership of the same family, are seamlessly linked by meandering pathways and a 1930s railroad trolley car.
However, over a century ago, these iconic establishments held a different purpose. They welcomed visitors seeking relaxation, offering an abundance of laxative mineral water for consumption. This touch of history adds yet another layer to the allure of French Lick, Indiana, where every corner whispers tales of days gone by.
Discover the Past: Engage with History at the Museum
- In the middle of town stands a colorful museum in a little shopping center;
- As you walk up to the French Lick West Baden Museum, you see a 7-foot-tall golden statue of what seems to be the devil in the window, and you know, yes, this is going to be weird;
- The museum details the entire history of the area, from when the Miami, Piankashaw, and Shawnee Tribes followed the Buffalo Trace, AKA the bison migration from Vincennes, Indiana to Clarksville, Indiana. Once the French colonizers came through, they made the discovery that these bison were “licking” the minerals left from the Ice Age.
Eventually, the town was founded by Dr. William Augustus Bowles, a politician, physician and businessman turned grave robber (for science, of course), traitor, and eventual hotel builder – building the first French Lick Springs Hotel in the 1840s. In 1901 a man named Tom Taggart bought the French Lick Springs Hotel and started bottling the local mineral laxative water, eventually naming it “Pluto Water” after the Roman God of the Underworld.
In the museum, there are also displays featuring famous French Lick basketball player Larry Bird; gambling; the Monon Railroad connecting Chicago, Louisville, and French Lick; and their biggest exhibit – the World’s Largest Circus Diorama.
What does the world’s largest circus diorama entail? Well, a lot. The display is over 1100 Square Feet and depicts the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus (a contemporary of the Ringling Brothers) with over 150,000 pieces, big top, circus performers, sideshow, and all. It’s easy to get lost in this display, picking out all the tiny, hand-painted details that took a man named Peter Gorman over forty years to complete.
Discover West Baden Springs Hotel
- Even today, The West Baden Springs Hotel retains the same awe-inspiring grandeur it boasted in 1902;
- As you pass through the monumental archways at the entrance, the meticulously manicured driveway guides you past flourishing gardens and, of course, the immense domed hotel itself. It’s no wonder that West Baden earned the moniker “The Eighth Wonder of the World”.
Beyond its striking yellow façade, a world of golds, tans, and greens welcomes you within the outer hallways. But it’s when you step through the double doors into the atrium that the true magic unfurls. The atrium, standing 110 feet tall and spanning 200 feet across, captivates with Greek statues, gold-leafed columns that reach the heavens, and abundant seating areas to bask in the ambiance of this architectural masterpiece.
While marveling at the finely crafted embellishments of the hotel is an experience in itself—one that can easily occupy hours—West Baden offers much more. Explore their gift shops, cafés, spa, and a museum that delves deeper into the hotel’s captivating history (details below).
For those privileged to be guests of West Baden Springs Hotel, a beautiful lap pool and hot tub await. With its elegant columns, natural illumination, and a checkered floor, this is no ordinary hotel pool—it’s a luxurious indulgence. And the best part? It stays open until midnight—a rare treat for those who often find hotel pools closing too early.
Stroll Through the Gardens
- Beyond the thresholds of either the West Baden Springs Hotel or the neighboring French Lick Springs Hotel lies a realm of gardens.
To the untrained eye, the presence of old wells may escape notice—some capped, others vanished from existence. Yet, those that remain offer insights into a rather… let’s say, purifying facet of French Lick’s history.
French Lick’s very foundation rests upon sulfurous mineral springs, reputed to possess rejuvenating and cleansing virtues. This water, infused with sodium and magnesium sulfate, beckoned individuals to partake in its remedial properties by either visiting or obtaining bottled variations from across the nation.
But what precisely did this water achieve? It served as a potent laxative. Under medical advisement, individuals consumed up to ten glasses daily, allowing its properties to perform their cleansing magic. It’s no wonder that affluent Chicagoans frequented this destination after the Derby for a cleansing ritual. Remarkably, it was even touted as a defense against the Spanish Flu!
Imbibers were furnished with glassware on extended sticks to directly extract water from the wells. They’d then amble through the gardens with canes in hand. These canes weren’t for support but rather served a unique purpose: signaling the need for a hasty retreat to the nearest privy when the water’s effect commenced.
Today, amidst the gardens, vestiges of these wells endure. At the French Lick Spring Hotel, the Pluto Spring Gazebo beckons, adorned with the cryptic proclamation, “when nature won’t, PLUTO will,” playfully hanging above an open well. Atop the hotel, the once-standing Pluto statues, now in a museum, once overlooked the well. Talk about an unconventional audience for restroom matters!
The West Baden Springs Hotel hosts two wells, Hygeia and Apollo, still present within its gardens. While capped in 1971 due to trace amounts of lithium, you can traverse a bridge over nearby cloudy, sulfur-scented waters. Coincidentally, 1971 marked the termination of Pluto Water’s sale (attributed to lithium’s controlled substance status). However, alternate ways to “indulge” in “Pluto Water” persist, including a bottle of blue vodka featuring Pluto’s image. An intriguing twist, isn’t it?
Embark on a Journey Through History
I understand, I’ve already shared quite a bit of history, but there’s still more to uncover! And you don’t need to rely solely on my words – there are abundant opportunities to delve deeper into the captivating tales of this place during your visit. Whether you’re eager to engage with a historian, join a walking tour, or even combine history with a delightful tea experience!
| Activity | Details |
|---|---|
| Meet with Jeffrey Lane, Historian | Meet Jeffrey Lane, the historian, on Tuesdays and Fridays from January to March, 2-3 pm, at the museum. Learn about the history of springs and hotels, including changing ownership and the story of West Baden Springs Hotel. |
| Guided Tour of French Lick or West Baden | Join 60-75 minute guided tours to learn about Pluto Water, Angel Room, and the region’s history of illicit casinos. |
| Afternoon Tea & Tour | Enjoy a 70-minute tour of West Baden Springs Hotel followed by elegant afternoon tea in the atrium. |
| Self-Guided Walking Tour | Explore both hotels and their gardens at your pace using a comprehensive map. Includes a rail trolley ride. |
Savor a Delicious Dinner Experience at French Lick Springs Hotel
- Experiencing dinner at French Lick’s 1875: The Steakhouse truly captures the essence of luxury at the French Lick Springs Hotel. Stepping into the lobby adorned with opulent gilded designs, marble columns, an enchanting display of Greek deities on the ceiling, and mosaic tiles gracing the floor, it’s almost certain to evoke a jaw-dropping reaction;
- 1875: The Steakhouse offers an exquisite dining affair that commences with an unexpected touch—a petite glass of tomato juice is served. You might find yourself wondering, “What’s the story behind this?” Interestingly, French Lick, Indiana boasts another unique claim to fame—tomato juice was actually invented here.
In a quirky turn of events dating back to 1917, the hotel’s chef, Louis Perrin, faced a shortage of oranges and resorted to an unconventional alternative—tomatoes. Blending them with a hint of sugar and his secret sauce, tomato juice came into existence! Perhaps he had a sense that amidst patrons imbibing laxative water, a V8-style option was in order.
But getting back to the dining experience, the steakhouse offers a range of expertly prepared meat cuts and delectable appetizers like lobster bisque and Caesar salad. Among the highlights, the 1875 Chocolate Martini stands out as one of the most exquisite and indulgent drinks I’ve had. And let’s not overlook the Banana Foster—a must-try that’s practically a show in itself. Picture bananas flambéed with rum and brown sugar right before you, then lavishly poured over velvety vanilla ice cream. It’s a delightful spectacle that’s hard to resist.
After your delectable dinner, take a leisurely stroll around the hotel to soak in more of its history. Explore the display cases featuring Pluto Water memorabilia, appreciate a miniature representation of West Baden, and browse photographs of illustrious visitors (including a variety of notable figures). Don’t miss the chance to walk through an underground stone tunnel that leads to a charming bowling alley—an intriguing glimpse into the hotel’s past.
Embrace Circus Day Festivities
- Every June, French Lick comes alive with its Circus Day celebration, a vibrant homage to the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus, which once found its home in this charming town. The circus holds a significant place in history—it was the second-largest circus in the United States, following only the Ringling Bros. and Barnum & Bailey Circus!;
- Purchased by Ed Ballard in 1913, the owner of the West Baden Springs Hotel, the circus established its winter headquarters in French Lick, Indiana. In 1929, just before the stock market crash, Ballard sold the circus to the Ringling Brothers.
Circus Day unfolds right in front of the French Lick West Baden Museum, providing a wonderful opportunity to marvel at the World’s Largest Circus Diorama depicting the Hagenbeck-Wallace Circus. The festivities bring forth an array of circus-themed delights, including food trucks, bounce houses, carnival games, and a sight to behold—the grand Barnum & Bailey Two Hemispheres circus band wagon, ingeniously designed to accommodate an entire band.
Interestingly, Circus Day was inaugurated in 2018, commemorating the 100th anniversary of the tragic Hammond Circus Train Wreck. This calamity claimed the lives of 86 performers from the Hagenbeck Wallace Circus due to a train collision caused by an engineer falling asleep at the controls. The collision led to a fire fueled by oil lamps and wooden train cars.
While the Hammond Circus Train Wreck was a somber incident, French Lick uses Circus Day as a way to honor the memory of those performers and to celebrate its vibrant and colorful past!
Take a Journey on the French Lick Scenic Railway
Experience the nostalgic allure of the past aboard the French Lick Scenic Railway—an 18-mile round trip that promises safety and nostalgia in equal measure. Immerse yourself in a 1.75-hour train ride that transports you through the enchanting Hoosier National Forest.
As the train winds its way, you’ll traverse the remarkable 2200-foot Burton Tunnel, Indiana’s second-longest tunnel, stretching nearly half a mile. From the comfort of your window seat, marvel at the verdant foliage and striking limestone cuts while the conductor shares captivating narratives of your voyage. For a unique perspective, explore the double-decker train car that elevates your connection with the surrounding nature.
Plan your visit during the fall for a truly magical experience, as the landscape undergoes a vibrant transformation with changing leaves, creating an atmosphere of autumnal wonder. Alternatively, spring offers a splendid opportunity to witness trees in bud and wildflowers in bloom. While indulging in this scenic escapade, be prepared for a temperate climate—bear in mind that not all train cars are air-conditioned.
Discover the World of Spa Bliss
You’re in for a treat as both the French Lick Springs and West Baden Springs Hotel boast their own exceptional spas, doubling the opportunities for pure relaxation.
At West Baden, the spa experience elevates your visit to new heights. Meander down a lengthy corridor to a building adjacent to the main atrium, where the Spa at West Baden resides above the Natatorium. Step into an oasis of tranquility adorned with marble inlays, rich chocolate cabinetry, and hand-blown glass.
An array of treatments awaits, with the Swedish Massage emerging as a stellar choice to untangle knots and rejuvenate. Amidst dimmed lights and soothing melodies, warm towels cocoon you while skilled hands work their magic. Afterward, unwind in the sauna within the dressing room, surrendering to a state of complete ease.
At the Spa at French Lick, a unique experience awaits – the Signature Pluto Bath, a distinction not found at West Baden. Immerse yourself in history as you soak in the therapeutic mineral spring waters that have comforted guests since the 1800s. This is more than a bath; it’s an immersive journey through time.
Experience Horseback Adventures and Carriage Rides
As we’ve already uncovered, French Lick Resort offers an abundance of activities to engage in. But here’s an exciting addition: the opportunity to connect with horses! The resort boasts a dedicated stable housing a delightful ensemble of 27 horses. Prepare to embark on an enchanting journey of getting acquainted with these charming equine companions in a variety of captivating ways!
- Embrace the Charm of a Carriage Ride – What could be a more picturesque way to soak in the campus’s beauty than on a horse-drawn carriage? Whether you opt for a sunlit daytime excursion or a romantic moonlit journey, relish the stunning gardens and mineral springs;
- Embark on a Horseback Adventure – For a more hands-on encounter, indulge in a 45 to 90-minute horseback ride, with pony rides available for the little ones. Traverse the 8-mile trails that border the Hoosier National Forest, offering glimpses of red-tail hawks, deer, turkeys, and other indigenous Indiana wildlife;
- Meet the Stabled Companions – Passionate about horses but not keen on riding? Pay a visit to the stables and engage with the horses, capturing precious moments in photographs. Meet Pepsi, an endearing full-grown miniature horse guaranteed to win your affection – and perhaps munch on your carrots!
Set Sail on a Wine Cruise at Patoka Lake
A mere 20-minute drive from French Lick lies Patoka Lake, an expansive 8,800-acre man-made lake spanning three counties. While the lake offers a plethora of activities including swimming, hiking, waterskiing, and even houseboat stays, one of the most enchanting ways to embrace its beauty is by embarking on a wine cruise. After all, what could complement a boat ride better than a glass of wine?
Discover two captivating options to immerse yourself in Patoka Lake’s allure: the Sunset Wine Cruise available from June to August, or the afternoon Fall Foliage Wine Cruise offered in September and October. Both cruises treat you to delectable hors d’oeuvres and desserts, thoughtfully paired with 5-7 wine tastings and two full glasses of your preferred wine. Plus, you’ll receive a souvenir wine glass to commemorate the experience!
During the leisurely two-hour voyage, keep an eye out for the lake’s majestic resident birds of prey, such as bald eagles, owls, and hawks, gracefully soaring over the tranquil waters. Each cruise showcases wines from diverse Indiana wineries, often featuring selections from local favorites like French Lick Winery, Winzerwald Winery, and Turtle Run Winery. For a serene and delightful activity in this resort town, a Patoka Lake wine cruise is the perfect choice.
Hit the Slopes at Paoli Peaks
When winter arrives, the allure of pristine white slopes beckons. Fortunately, if you find yourself in French Lick during the colder months, there’s a convenient ski destination just around the corner: Paoli Peaks.
Immerse yourself in a day of skiing on the wooded hills of Paoli Peaks, a mere 15-minute drive from French Lick. This winter wonderland caters to skiers, snowboarders, and even snow tubing enthusiasts. With the enchanting sight of snow-draped trees and panoramic valley views as your backdrop, you have a choice of 17 runs to conquer.
After an exhilarating day on the slopes, recharge at their cafeteria-style restaurant (equipped with more seating than your typical airport). And if you’re a first-timer, their comprehensive guide is a must-read.
For those seeking proximity to the snow-filled action, consider staying at a private and cozy cottage located around 4 miles from Paoli Peaks. It’s the ideal retreat to warm up after a day of snowy adventure. Picture yourself by the fire pit, embracing the tranquility of winter with your loved one.
Experience the Magic of Christmas
When Christmas comes around, the West Baden Springs Hotel and the French Lick Springs Hotel transform into enchanting havens of holiday cheer. During the “50 Days of Lights” celebration, spanning nearly two months, these hotels become a dazzling spectacle of festive delights.
At the West Baden Springs Hotel, the atrium becomes a winter wonderland adorned with a magnificent 45-foot Christmas tree. Balcony rooms are adorned with elegant garlands and bows, setting the stage for a truly magical experience. On certain Saturdays, the Dickens Carolers grace the atrium with their melodious tunes, taking full advantage of the splendid acoustics.
Meanwhile, the French Lick Springs Hotel offers a plethora of Christmas activities to immerse yourself in. An almost-life-sized Christmas Village, encounters with Santa Claus, heartwarming Christmas movie screenings, and captivating story time sessions with Mrs. Claus promise endless joy and engagement.
As night falls, step outside the French Lick Springs Hotel’s Spa Wing to witness a captivating eight-minute holiday light show. The building transforms into a canvas of vibrant lights, synchronized to a delightful holiday soundtrack that fills the air. Over at the West Baden Springs Hotel, the atrium’s lights gracefully dim at 9pm, accompanied by a soothing piano Christmas score. It’s a mesmerizing spectacle that embodies the spirit of the season.
Choosing Your Accommodation in French Lick, Indiana
When visiting the vibrant town of French Lick, Indiana, the abundance of attractions might entice you to extend your stay for a couple of days, or perhaps even longer! To immerse yourself in the heart of the excitement, the West Baden Springs Hotel (opt for an atrium balcony room for a special experience) or the French Lick Springs Hotel stand out as excellent choices. However, if you’re aiming to focus on daytime explorations, or if you have budget considerations, explore these fantastic rental options:
For those seeking an affordable yet convenient stay right in the heart of town, the cozy bungalow is an ideal choice. With proximity to French Lick Resorts and the added charm of a covered outdoor picnic bench amidst a flower garden, this option offers a delightful getaway.
If you’re yearning for a serene escape amidst nature, the exquisitely crafted lodge beckons. Nestled on 9 acres of the Hoosier National Forest, this retreat feels like a secluded paradise, despite being just 5 miles away from French Lick. The lodge boasts a picturesque wooden exterior, complemented by a fire pit, rocking chairs, outdoor shower, grill station, and three king-sized beds for a memorable stay with friends or family.
Also situated approximately 5 miles from French Lick, the compact yet charming cabin resides on an expansive 55-acre property. This quaint abode, spanning a mere 427 square feet, offers a cozy living room, kitchen, bathroom, loft with twin beds, and a bedroom furnished with a queen mattress. It’s an opportunity to embrace the concept of tiny living while indulging in the tranquility of nature, complete with miles of scenic trails and a peaceful pond on the property.
Conclusion
In the heart of Indiana, French Lick offers a captivating blend of history, charm, and unique attractions. From historic resorts to mineral springs and intriguing folklore, this town’s layers unveil a truly enchanting experience. Embark on a journey to discover the best of French Lick’s activities, and you’ll leave with unforgettable memories of its alluring character.
